Why maintenance is a “hidden accelerator” of productivity
In hydraulics, a simple rule applies: if the oil is good, the knife is sharp and the seals seal, wood splitter works quickly and without downtime. But when the oil gets old, the knife dulls or starts to leak, the cycles lengthen, the machine heats up, and you waste time and money.
Safety in the field
Before you unscrew anything:
- Machine shut downs and wait for everything to stop.
- Relieves hydraulic pressure (especially in excavator cleaver).
- Use PPE: glasses/visor, gloves with grip, safety footwear.
For a short checklist, check: The 5 most important safety rules.
Changing the hydraulic oil - the most common cause of problems
Hydraulic oil transmits force, lubricates and cools. Over time, it gets wear particles, moisture and loses its properties. The result is slower splitting, more heat and more pump/valve wear.
When is it time to change:
- after the time/dates specified by the manufacturer,
- if the oil darkens, foams or has the smell of burning,
- if you notice significantly slower cycles for no other reason.
In a nutshell:
Warm up the machine with a few cycles, turn it off, relieve the pressure, drain the oil into the tank, replace the filter (if it has one), pour the recommended oil, make a test cycle and check the level and any leaks.
Be careful that Hydraulic Splitter For Excavator match the type of oil to the excavator system (temperature/viscosity).
Knife/wedge - when “tearing” instead of a slot
When the knife is cannon or circled, the hydraulics have to do more work. This means more time on the cycle, more heating of the oil and often worse result (unclean edges, jamming in knots).
Signs that it is time to grind or change:
- the logs are broken,
- the machine takes noticeably more time on the same cuts,
- you see encirclement or deformation of the wedge.
Practical advice:
Grinding should be even, at the recommended angle. After the procedure, make a test on softer wood (spruce/fir), only then proceed to beech/oak.
If you want a better understanding of the grafting technique (log alignment, knot work), read What is firewood grafting?.
Seals and hoses - small drop, big damage
The leak is first “just a little greasy”, but then the pressure drops, the machine loses power and the work becomes less safe.
What to check regularly:
- greasy marks around the joints and roller,
- cracks on pipes, wear due to rubbing,
- drip after operation or during the cycle.
How to act:
Replace gaskets and hoses as soon as you notice a leak. In the case of pipes, pay attention to the bend radius and the correct length so that it does not pull and does not rub against the metal.
Short service rhythm (so as not to forget)
- After each work: wipe the machine, visually check for leaks, clean the work surface.
- Regularly in season: check the oil level, the condition of the hose, the wear of the knife/wedge.
- Seasonal: changing the oil/filter according to the instructions, inspecting the seals and fixing.
This is especially important in intensive use (e.g. serial work or wood splitter in the field).